Note: this is pretty much a diary account of a five-day pub marathon in Prague during January 2004. Some of these places will have changed, and some may have closed, so please bear this in mind.

Our most alco-centric trip to Prague was in January 2004, and to be honest, consisted mostly of unwinding and relaxing via the medium of beer. This is basically a run-down of where we went (no less than 36 different places!), some of which are better than others – I’ve rated them all out of ten for beer and ambience. As always, this is purely subjective, but might help somebody, somewhere. As a result, this is a curious mix of diary and pub-guide – the advantage being that these pub-crawls have been tried and tested! It also saves me having to individually recommend places when people ask me! One important thing to bear in mind – due to the weather (very cold and snowy), we didn’t make it to some of the more outlying areas (such as Smichov, Brevnov or Zizkov), where we know there are good, cheap pubs (see above for more details), so don’t forget these areas if you’re looking for a bit of local colour and a cheap beer off the beaten track.

Please note: some of these bars may have closed or changed beyond recognition – don’t blame us!

We arrived at mid-afternoon on New Years Day, and as we were keen to avoid the massive crowds, and were staying in Mala Strana, we thought we’d keep it local. This was quite a frustrating evening – some places were closed, meaning the ones that were open were often too busy too accommodate us, and others were closing early as it was News Year’s Day. Many pub-looking places in this area are in fact restaurants, looking to capitalise on the high numbers of tourists climbing the hill to the castle.

Malostrana Pivnice, Cihelna, Mala Strana

If walking from Malostranska metro back towards the Charles Bridge, you’ll see the writing on the wall for this place – take the left fork (Cihelna), and dive in. Very popular, and plenty of food was being served. We sat on high stools in a kind of corridor and enjoyed the excellent Pilsner Urquell.

U Maleho Glena, Karmelitska, Mala Strana

“The Little Glen” is easy to spot – just look for the Guinness sign on Karmelitska, just south off of Malastranske Namesti. The downstairs is used for evening jazz sessions, and the upstairs is reminiscent of an Irish pub. It’s okay, and cheaper than similar places in the Old Town, but not worth a lengthy visit (unless your into jazz).

Un-named Restaurant, Maltezske Namesti 15, Mala Strana

Whilst looking for a pub called U Malteze in Maltezske Namesti, we stumbled across this reasonable Czech restaurant. Not a bad choice, even if just for a coffee or a beer, but quite small.

U Zlateho Hada (Wine Bar), Maltezske Namesti, Mala Strana

Just over the road from the restaurant above is a wee wine bar, with more seats underground. Very friendly, and popular with the locals, we stopped in for a couple of hot red wines.

U Klicu, Propkopska, Mala Strana

An old favourite from our 2001 trip, U Klicu (The Key) now finds itself next to a garish Spanish tapas bar, and was even smaller than we remembered (just 2 tables). Good Budvar on tap, as well as plenty of wine. Worth a visit.

Baracnicka Rychta, Trziste 33 (off Nerudova), Mala Strana/Hradcany

Packed out with locals and Italian tourists, we only stayed long enough for a beer and a plate of cheese. Okay, but nothing special on our visit. Highly rated elsewhere, mind.

Jo's Bar, Malastranske Namesti 7, Mala Strana

A well-known expat bar in the middle of Mala Strana square. Does exactly what it says on the tin. Not my cup of tea, but the only place open late on New Years Day.

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Nove Mesto pretty much includes the top of Wencelsas Square downwards, although we were mostly around the Karlovo Namesti area (but we did start at Mustek and walked down Vojvodicka). We figured that it would be less full of tourists, and thought we’d hit the brew pubs before the weekend – this almost backfired due to Pivovarsky Dum’s popularity – get there early (it’s worth it!)

Branika Formanka, Vodickova, Nove Mesto

Rough and ready stand-up joint next to a posher pub/restaurant, just a few steps from Wenscelasas Square and Mustek metro, and offering some of the cheapest, nicest beer in the city centre. There are seats, but these seemed to be the preserve of the older generation picking at their utopenec (pickled sausage). Be prepared to stand with everyday Czech workers as they nip in and down pints in record time. Well worth a visit! Both 10-degree and 12-degree Branik are on tap, and both are great beers.

Novomestsky Pivovar, Vodickova 20, Nove Mesto

Famous for food, and obviously priced at tourists, this place knocks out it’s own dark and light brews. The dark was a wee bit too sweet, and the light a little gassier than one would expect from a brew-pub. The food was pretty nice, but it was crowded at lunchtime – we were on the upstairs terrace.

U Fleku, Kremencova 11, Nove Mesto

A Prague institution – and favourite destination of German coach parties. The dark house beer is very nice, and certainly more-ish, but they knock it out in short measures (0.4l), and try and ply you with highly-overpriced becherovka (don’t bother – have some over the road instead). Well worth a visit, but bear in mind that this place exists solely for the tourists these days.

Un-named Bar, Opposite U Fleku, Kremencova, Nove Mesto

An everyday Czech pivnice, just over and right from U Fleku, provides an antidote to the touristy glitz of over the road. Nothing special, but not bad either.

Unnamed Bar/Restaurant, along Jecna, Nove Mesto

This attractive looking, but quiet, wee place is downstairs on the main road. Nothing overly special – palatable enough beer and food - which is just as well, as there’s no hope of me remembering the name to direct you back to it!

Pivovarsky Dum, Lipova 15 (entrance on Jecna), Nove Mesto

Looks like a furniture showroom from the street, but inside is a very flash, well-lit and ridiculously popular (i.e. fully booked from 7pm onwards – bear this in mind!) brew-pub. Great looking menu (but we’d just eaten), and fantastic unfiltered beer in light and dark, and chocolate, banana and vanilla flavours. Worth a few hours of any beer-drinker’s time – just get there early!!!

Unnamed Bar, Jecna, Nove Mesto

Non-descript, local bar with a proliferation of fruit machines (and Shrek in Czech on the telly). These bars are ten-a-penny across the city, and this definitely wasn’t one of the better ones.

U Havrana (The Raven), Halkova 6, Nove Mesto

Living up to it’s reputation, and being impossibly smoky despite being near empty, this big bar with lots of seats is okay, but not worth a special trip. Has Kozel on tap, which was nice.

Musketyr Wine Bar, Mezibranska, Nove Mesto

One of Helen’s favourite bars, this little cellar opposite the National Museum (just up the hill from Muzeum metro) is accessed through an innocous looking door, that then leads down a stairway to the vaulted cellar below. A decent wine selection, including Czech wines is complimented by a decent looking food menu. Two types of Krusovice (the quintessential restaurant brew here) are on offer – I find the 12-degree version a little too sharp.

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Holesovice is pretty much a standard inner-city suburb, with standard pubs. However, it was the first area we stayed in (back in 1999), so we thought we’d go back and see how it was getting on (and if the Sparta fans bar was still there). We got the metro to Vltavska, and walked around to Dukelskych Hridinu, which is pretty much the main drag.

Flamengo Pizzeria, corner of Hermanova and Dukelskych Hridinu, Holesovice

After an abortive search for Dante’s (now closed down), we settled for this small, welcoming pizzeria. Nothing special, and serving bottled beer (we stuck to coke), the pizza was cheap and filling and little else.

Holesovice Pennant bar (not it’s real title), Dukelskych Hridinu, Holesovice

To be found on the corner of Veletrzni and Dukelskych Hridinu, this place has really smartened up it’s act in the past 5 years. What was previously a bare front bar, bedecked in dozens of pennants, with a barn-like beer hall at the side, is now a smart, table-clothed pivnice. The front bar is still a mostly standing affair, and the pennants are now down to barely two-dozen (look out for the yellow NATA one on the left behind the bar). The scary-looking barman broke into a wide smile when I ordered in my broken Czech. Definitely worth a look-in if you’re in the area. 12-degree Pilsner Urquell and dark Kozel on tap.

Unnamed Bar, Hermanova, Holesovice

To be found one street up the hill from Dukelskych Hridinu, on the corner of Hermanova and Veverkova (near the Bellevue Hotel), this acceptable pub was popular with passers-by drinking schnapps in the front bar, and eating in the sit-down portion.

Unnamed Sports Bar, Milady Horakove, Holesovice

A strange one this – a sports bar diagonally opposite the Bellevue Hotel with it’s own bookies (in a little shed) inside the door. There’s a pool table out back, and plenty of bar stools, as well as a pleasant seating area at the front with the walls bedecked in old photos and match reports. All of this, plus friendly service and the interesting Bernard beer on tap. Again, not necessarily worth a special trip, but if you’re passing…

Unnamed Bar/Restaurant, Strossmayerova Namesti, Holesovice

This place, which name again escapes me, has the dubious distinction of being our first ever bar in the Czech Republic. More of a restaurant (although perfectly happy to just serve you beer), it is blighted (in my opinion) by the curse of Czech restaurants – the acidic Krusovice beer on tap.

Zlata Hvezda (Sports Bar), Ve Smeckach 12, Nove Mesto

Back near Wensceslas Square, and down a side alley towards this popular Sports Bar. Various lived-in rooms come off the main corridor, but the biggest is at the back. Waitresses give prompt (although not always English-speaking) service, and provide cheap (and very drinkable) 10-degree Gambrinus, pricier Pilsner Urquell and pizzas to a beered-up stag party clientele. Lots of big screens (we watched 4 games at once), but not really my cup of tea (we were only there as Southampton were on) – if you do have to use a Sports Bar, this may be your best bet.

Jagr's Sports Bar, Vaclavske Namesti 56, Nove Mesto

Part-owned by Jagomir Jagr, a Czech ice hockey star famous in the US, this sterile and flash bar is the complete antithesis to the one above. Occupying a prime position on Wencs Sq, it was devoid of all character (and customers) when we popped in on the Saturday evening. Bound to be popular with British stag parties in high season, we didn’t think it warranted the extortionate prices.

U Pinkasu, Jungmannovo Namesti 16, Nove Mesto

Famous for being the first place in Prague to serve Pilsner Urquell on draught (there’s a plaque downstairs on the way to the toilets), this place serves decent Czech food and beer at a reasonable price. It also gets ridiculously busy, but seemed to have a bit more space down the stairs and out the back.

Lucerna Music Bar, Vodicokova 36, Nove Mesto

Another place we visited on our first night in Prague all of those years ago – Lucerna’s 80’s and 90’s disco is legendary, and is great night out. Costing just £2 to get in, and 60p a beer, watch and join in as people of all ages get down to the strains of Duran Duran and Midnight Oil. Great entertainment, and apparently available on Fridays as well as Saturdays.

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Day Four: Sun 4th Jan – Stare Mesto

Not hungover as such (sleeping until 1pm helped!), we slowly made our way across town to TGI Fridays in Na Prikope for some familiar food. Sunday was a slow day, as we didn’t want to kill ourselves with alcohol too quickly, although we did pick the pace up again in the evening. This was also our only day of culture, taking in both the Christmas Market stalls and the interesting Museum of Communism (behind McDonalds on Na Prikope).

TGI Fridays, Na Prikope 27, Nove Mesto

Exactly the same the world over – wall-to-wall Americana, attentive smiling service, extensive cocktails and expensive steaks. Does exactly what it says on the tin.

Pivnice Radegast, Templova 2, Stare Mesto

Down a dead-end street behind the Art Nouveua Obneci Dum, the run-down looking Radegast Beer Hall is a real find. Although there more tourists in this time than on previous occasions, this place is still authentically Czech, and serves the excellent Radegast on draught, as well as a decent menu. Worth seeking out, and handy for the Obneci Dum and the Old Town Square.

Od Soumraku Do Usvitu (From Dusk to Dawn), Tynska 19, Stare Mesto

In the shadow of Tyn Church, this wee bar behind the Old Town square has a great selection of cocktails (I had the two involving Becherovka – well recommended) and an intimate atmosphere. Not the cheapest, but then it has a prime location.

U Zlateho Tygra (The Golden Tiger), Husova 17, Stare Mesto

The Golden Tiger is one of the most famous pubs in Prague, and as a result is shared between die-hard local regulars and hordes of guidebook-toting tourists (those that don’t spin round when they walk into the spartan, smoky beer hall). This is well worth all the publicity (I just wish less tourists found it, mind!) – great beer, good food and great service, as well as a real buzz and even a selection of football pennants in the back room (on the way to the toilets). Difficult to find a table almost all of the time, speaking Czech will really work wonders and earn the respect of the otherwise grumpy locals. Apparently, the Pilsner Urquell is not kept in barrels, but in large tanks under the bar, and you can really taste the difference.

U Krale Jiriho (King George), Lilova 10, Stare Mesto

Most tourists walk straight past this bar in favour of the James Joyce further down the passageway. It’s small and narrow, and consequently can be uncomfortable if full (which doesn’t take too much, admittedly!), but it’s still preferable to a fake Irish pub!

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Day Five: Monday 5th Jan – Hradcanska & Mala Strana

Monday was to be our touristy day – up the snowbound hill to the Castle for a proper look around, in the hope that most of the New Year crowds would be away home and back at work. Of course, it didn’t work out that way…

Unnamed café bar, Uvoz, Hradcany

After a long, ardous climb up the icy hill Nerudova towards the Castle, we carried on past the first steps and found this inviting café on the right hand side. A popular tourist stop-off point, but conveniently just off the main drag, with a tempting menu, this place is worth popping into for sustenance after climbing the hill. Interesting artwork on the walls, and an airy atmosphere.

Restaurant nad Uvozem, Loretanska 15, Hradcany

A real tourist trap, this bar has a commanding view over the city (it’s just possible to make out Charles Bridge), but suffers from the worst (and some of the most expensive) Pilsner Urquell in the city. It’s halfway up a narrow staircase from Uvoz. The food is okay, but well-overpriced. You are most definitely paying for the view here. If you must, then consider stopping at a coffee.

U Cerneho Vola, Loretanske Namesti 1, Hradcany

“At the Black Ox” is a real gem of a pub. Like the Golden Tiger above, this place is in many a guidebook, and has a similar ambience – loud, busy and full of locals. No need to be intimidated – just find a free seat (we had to squeeze right into the back, but ended up staying for hours) and get stuck in. Failing that, there’s plenty of stand-up room just inside the door. There’s Velkopopvicky Kozel on draught (around 45p for 0.5l), and it’s surprisingly cheap given it’s prime location by the Castle and opposite the Loretta. Decent food too, and friendly attentive service – well worth a lengthy stay. This is the sole reason we ended up missing the castle.

Hospudka Na Schodech, Radnicke Schody 5 (on the stairs between Nerudova and Loretanska), Hradcany

We popped in on the way back down the hill around 7pm – it was full of locals but not unwelcoming. Unfortunately, the draught beer was 12-degree Krusovice, so not my favourite. An okay place, but you’re probably better off spending more time in U Cervelo Vola.

U Krale Brabantsko, Thunovska 15, Mala Strana

Just off the main drag up the Castle Hill (at the back of U Kocura, basically), this place knocks out decent Pilsner Urquell and food (we had the Beer Cheese). Worth walking around the corner for.

Hopsoda U Kocura, Nerudova 2, Mala Strana

Apparently this place used to be the place to be, however we found it pretty empty, and oppressively bright under the strip lighting. On the plus side, they do have a St Pauli pennant behind the bar, and do serve excellent Budvar. We were in quite late, but it’s apparently a favourite with tourists making the long climb to the Castle.

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