This guide has been built up over several trips to Prague spanning
a decade, so some entries may be out of date (keep an eye on the
"date last visted"!). For ease, I've done my best to split
this into areas, starting in the centre and then expanding out to
the less well-trodden suburbs. If you're serious about Czech beer,
then I cannot recommend CAMRA's Good
Beer Guide: Prague (written by Evan Rail) enough
- it helped me find a good amount of these pubs, particularly over
the two 2008 trips, and is an excellent source of knowledge about
the beer itself.
U Medvidku, Na Perstyne 7 Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 9/10 (Oldgott Barrique),
8/10 (Budvar). Ambience: 7/10 Total: 8/10
"At the little bears" is actually several pubs rolled
into one, along with its own hotel. The main beer hall, and the
smaller tap-room like arrangement to the left of the main door,
are both Budvar houses and serve an unfiltered version which is
well worth trying, however the real treat is right through the back
and up the stairs, where it houses its own tiny brewery knocking
out the very tasty "Oldgott Barrique". Well worth carrying
on up the stairs for!
U Zlateho Tygra (The Golden Tiger), Husova
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 10/10 Ambience: 10/10 Total: 10/10
The Golden Tiger is one of the most famous pubs in Prague, and
as a result is shared between die-hard local regulars and hordes
of guidebook-toting tourists (those that don’t spin round
when they walk into the spartan, smoky beer hall). This is well
worth all the publicity (I just wish less tourists found it, mind!)
– great beer, good pub food and great service, as well as
a real buzz and even a selection of football pennants in the back
room (on the way to the toilets). Difficult to find a table almost
all of the time, speaking Czech will really work wonders and earn
the respect of the otherwise grumpy locals. This was pretty much
the original “tank pub”; the Pilsner Urquell is not
kept in barrels, but in large tanks under the bar, and you can really
taste the difference.
U Krale Jiriho (King George), Lilova
10, Stare Mesto
Last visited: Jan 2005. Beer: 8/10 Ambience: 8/10 Total: 8/10
Most tourists walk straight past this bar in favour of the James
Joyce further down the passageway. It’s small and narrow,
and consequently can be uncomfortable if full (which doesn’t
take too much, admittedly!), but it’s still preferable to
a fake Irish pub!
U Rudolfina, Krizovnicka 10
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 8/10. Ambience: 8/10 Total: 8/10
A renowned tank pub close to the old town, but just out of the
main tourist orbit. There’s a stand-up bar at ground level,
but it’s worth heading down to the vaulted basement. Huge
meals, but we stuck to the beer.
Kozicka, Kozi (NE direction off Old Town
Last visited: Jan 2005. Beer: 6/10. Ambience: 3/10 Total: 4/10
This smoky dive of a late night bar just off the old town square
is handy to know about, for its late licence, but really that’s
Molly Malones, U Obecního Dvora
Last visited: Dec 2006. Beer: 5/10. Ambience: 7/10 Total: 6/10
If you NEED to go to an Irish pub, even if it’s just for
a spot of familiar food, then this is your place. Located to the
north of the Old Town Square, down a dead-end street, it’s
not the easiest to find but it is worth it.
Caffreys, Staromestske namesti 10
Last visited: June 1999. Not rated as not been in for a drink. Not
now, not ever.
Some people like the idea of an Irish pub right on the Old Town
Square, even if it means being charged through the nose in premises
that would be more suited to a furniture showroom. I don’t.
Now dragged even further down by the George & Dragon English
Pub next door. Stag Party Heaven. Or Hell.
Marquis de Sade, Templova 8
Last visited: Jan 2005. Beer: 5/10. Ambience: 1/10 Total: 3/10
A Prague expat institution with a very rough and ready reputation.
Some people like it. I don’t.
Branika Formanka, Vodickova
Last visited: Dec 2006. Beer: 5/10. Ambience: 9/10. Total: 7/10
Rough and ready stand-up joint next to a posher pub/restaurant,
just a few steps from Wensceslas Square and Mustek metro, and offering
some of the cheapest (and once upon a time, nicest) beer in the
city centre. There are seats, but these seemed to be the preserve
of the older generation picking at their Utopenec (pickled sausage).
Be prepared to stand with everyday Czech workers as they nip in
and down pints in record time. Well worth a visit! Both 10-degree
and 12-degree Branik are on tap, along with some dark beers.
Novomestsky Pivovar, Vodickova 20
Last visited: Jan 2005. Beer/Food: 7/10. Ambience: 5/10. Total:
Famous for food, and obviously priced at tourists, this place knocks
out its own dark and light brews. The dark was a wee bit too sweet,
and the light a little gassier than one would expect from a brew-pub.
The food was pretty nice, but it was crowded at lunchtime –
we were on the upstairs terrace. Not worth a special trip, but not
bad if you’re passing.
U Fleku, Kremencova 11
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 10/10. Ambience: 5/10. Total: 7/10
A Prague institution – and favourite destination of German
coach parties. The dark house beer is very nice, and certainly more-ish,
but they knock it out in short measures (0.4l), and try and ply
you with highly-overpriced Becherovka (don’t bother –
have some at the next normal bar you go to instead!). Well worth
a visit, but bear in mind that this place exists solely for the
tourists these days and try not to let that cloud your judgement!
Pivovarsky Dum, Lipova 15 (entrance on
Last visited: May 2008. Beer: 10/10 Ambience: 8/10 Total: 9/10
Looks like a furniture showroom from the street, but inside is
a very flash, well-lit and ridiculously popular (i.e. fully booked
from 7pm onwards – bear this in mind!) brewpub. Plenty of
food options, mostly in unfeasibly large portions, and fantastic
unfiltered beer in light and dark varieties, plus chocolate, banana
and vanilla flavours. Worth a few hours of any beer-drinker’s
time – just get there early!!!
U Havrana (The Raven), Halkova 6
Last visited: Jan 2006. Beer: 7/10 Ambience: 7/10 Total: 7/10
Living up to it’s reputation, and being impossibly smoky
despite being near empty, this big bar with lots of seats is okay,
but not worth a special trip (unless it’s late at night –
tends to open 5pm – 5am). Had Kozel on tap, which was nice.
Musketyr Wine Bar, Mezibranska 13
Last visited: Jan 2004. Beer/Wine: 6/10 Ambience: 9/10 Total: 8/10
One of Helen’s favourite bars (actually part of a hotel of
the same name, but we never realised this), this little cellar opposite
the National Museum (just up the hill from Muzeum metro) is accessed
through an innocous looking door, that then leads down a stairway
to the vaulted cellar below. A decent wine selection, including
Czech wines is complimented by a decent looking food menu. Two types
of Krusovice (the quintessential restaurant brew here) were on offer
– I find the 12-degree version a little too sharp.
Zlata Hvezda (Sports Bar), Ve Smeckach
Last visited: Jan 2004. Beer/Food: 7/10. Ambience: 6/10 Total: 7/10
Back near Wensceslas Square, and down a strip bar side alley towards
this popular Sports Bar. Various lived-in rooms come off the main
corridor, but the biggest is at the back. Waitresses give prompt
(although not always English-speaking) service, and provide cheap
(and very drinkable) 10-degree Gambrinus, pricier Pilsner Urquell
and pizzas to a beered-up stag party clientele. Lots of big screens
(we watched 4 games at once), but not really my cup of tea (we were
only there as Southampton were on) – if you do have to use
a Sports Bar, this may be your best bet.
Shamrock Irish Pub (once upon a time
was Jagr's Sports Bar), Vaclavske Namesti 56
Last visited: May 2008. Beer: 2/10. Ambience: 2/10. Total: 2/10.
Once a huge, empty sterile and flash bar owned by Jagomir Jagr,
a Czech ice hockey star famous in the US, and now a big warehouse
of an Irish pub. Occupying a prime position at the foot of Wencelsas
Sq, it charges prices to match. Seriously not my cup of tea, but
obviously popular with a section of the market!
U Pinkasu, Jungmannovo Namesti 16, Nove
Last visited: Jan 2006. Beer: 9/10 Ambience: 8/10 Total: 8/10
Famous for being the first place in Prague to serve Pilsner Urquell
on draught (there’s a plaque downstairs on the way to the
toilets), this place serves decent Czech food and beer at a reasonable
price. It also gets ridiculously busy, but seemed to have a bit
more space down the stairs and out the back.
Lucerna Music Bar, Vodicokova 36, Nove
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 6/10 Ambience: 10/10 Total: 8/10
Another place we visited on our first night in Prague all of those
years ago – Lucerna’s 80’s (and now 90’s
and even 2000’s – I’m getting too old!) disco
is legendary, and is great night out. Offering cheap admission and
reasonable beer prices, watch and join in as people of all ages
get down to the strains of Duran Duran and Midnight Oil. Great entertainment
on Friday and Saturday nights.
Osvezovna, Divadelni (just south of main
theatre overlooking river)
Last visited: Dec 2006. Beer: 6/10. Ambience: 9/10 Total: 8/10
An old decaying pub with bags of character and one of the rare
Radegast pubs left in the city centre, this place has all the grumpy
service you could possibly want! A great wee find just off the main
drags of Nove Mesto. Radegast is a beer that divides opinions, but
still has a loyal local following.
Olympia, Vitezna 7
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 8/10. Ambience: 5/10 Total: 6/10
Although listed as a pub, this place has a serious restaurant
feel about it. The food is indeed good, as is the beer, but it does
feel a little corporate in execution. Just over the bridge from
the National Theatre.
Malostrana Pivnice, Cihelna 3
Last visited: Jan 2004. Beer: 8/10 Ambience: 6/10 Total: 7/10
If walking from Malostranska metro back towards the Charles Bridge,
you’ll see the writing on the wall for this place –
take the left fork (Cihelna), and dive in. Very popular, and plenty
of food was being served. We sat on high stools in a kind of corridor
and enjoyed the excellent Pilsner Urquell.
U Maleho Glena 23, Karmelitska
Last visited: May 2008. Beer: 7/10 Ambience: 6/10 Total: 6/10
“The Little Glen” is easy to spot – just look
for the Guinness sign on Karmelitska, just south off of Malastranske
Namesti. The downstairs is used for evening jazz sessions, and the
upstairs is reminiscent of an Irish pub and very popular with American
exchange students (their embassy is right around the corner. It’s
okay, and cheaper than similar places in the Old Town.
U Klicu, Propkopska
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 8/10 Ambience: 9/10 Total: 9/10
An old favourite dating back to our 2001 trip, U Klicu (The Key)
now finds itself next to a garish Spanish tapas bar, and was even
smaller than we remembered (just 2 tables). Good Budvar on tap,
as well as plenty of wine. Worth a visit, but don’t bank on
getting a seat!
Baracnicka Rychta, Trziste 23 (off Nerudova)
Last visited: Jan 2006. Beer: 6/10 Ambience: 6/10 Total: 6/10
Packed out with locals and Italian tourists, we only stayed long
enough for a beer and a plate of cheese. Okay, but nothing special
on either of our visits. Highly rated elsewhere, mind, so it must
be doing something right!
Jo's Bar, Malastranske Namesti 7
Last visited: Jan 2005. Beer: 3/10 Ambience: 5/10 Total: 3/10
A well-known expat bar in the middle of Mala Strana square. Does
exactly what it says on the tin. Not my cup of tea, but the only
place open late on New Years Day.
Hopsoda U Kocura, Nerudova 2
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 8/10 Ambience: 7/10 Total: 8/10
Back on the up after hitting a bit of a low a few years back, this
erstwhile drinking institution had both Bernard and its old favourite
on tap in June 2008. Stretching back a fair distance, the rear tends
to be for eating and the tables near the door are more utilitarian
drinking stops. A handful of football memorabilia, including some
St Pauli trinkets, is on view. It’s apparently a favourite
with tourists making the long climb to the Castle.
U Krale Brabantsko, Thunovska 15
Last visited: Jan 2006. Beer: 8/10 Ambience: 8/10 Total: 8/10 (but
has probably changed beyond all recognition now!)
Just off the main drag up the Castle Hill (at the back of U Kocura,
basically), this place knocked out decent Pilsner Urquell and food
(and exceptional beer cheese). Was once worth walking around the
corner for, however by 2008 it had become a medieval themed restaurant,
complete with circus performers outside trying to drum up trade.
We didn’t give it a go.
Unnamed café bar, Uvoz
Last visited: Jan 2004. Beer: 8/10 Ambience: 8/10 Total: 7/10
After a long, ardous climb up the icy hill Nerudova towards the
Castle, we carried on past the first steps and found this inviting
café on the right hand side. A popular tourist stop-off point,
but conveniently just off the main drag, with a tempting menu, this
place is worth popping into for sustenance after climbing the hill.
Interesting artwork on the walls, and an airy atmosphere.
Restaurant nad Uvozem, Loretanska
Last visited: Jan 2004. Beer/Food: 1/10 Ambience: 3/10 Total: 2/10
A real tourist trap, this bar has a commanding view over the city
(it’s just possible to make out Charles Bridge), but suffers
from the worst (and some of the most expensive) Pilsner Urquell
in the city we’d tasted at the time. It’s halfway up
a narrow staircase from Uvoz. The food is okay, but well-overpriced.
You are most definitely paying for the view here. If you must, then
consider stopping at a coffee.
U Cerneho Vola, Loretanske Namesti 1
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 10/10 Ambience: 10/10 Total: 10/10
“At the Black Ox” is a real gem of a pub. Like the
Golden Tiger above, this place is in many a guidebook, and has a
similar ambience – loud, busy and full of locals. No need
to be intimidated – just find a free seat (we had to squeeze
right into the back, but ended up staying for hours) and get stuck
in. Failing that, there’s plenty of stand-up room just inside
the door. There’s Velkopopvicky Kozel on draught (around 45p
for 0.5l), and it’s surprisingly cheap given it’s prime
location by the Castle and opposite the Loretta. Decent food too,
and friendly attentive service – well worth a lengthy stay.
This is the sole reason we ended up missing the castle.
Hospudka Na Schodech, Radnicke Schody
5 (on the stairs between Nerudova and Loretanska)
Last visited: Jan 2004. Beer: 6/10 Ambience: 7/10 Total: 7/10
We popped in on the way back down the hill around 7pm – it
was full of locals but not unwelcoming. Unfortunately, the draught
beer was 12-degree Krusovice, so not my favourite. An okay place,
but you’re probably better off spending more time in U Cervelo
Klasterni pivovar Strahov, Strahovsky
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 9/10. Ambience: 4/10 Total: 7/10
Stupidly overpriced, but very nice beer nonetheless, this small
brewpub and expensive restaurant caters exclusively to the rich
and foolish, but is worth a stop if you’re on a scooping adventure.
Always head for the building to the left of the courtyard, as this
houses the brewery.
Klasterni Senk, Brevnovsky Klaster
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 8/10. Ambience: 8/10 Total: 8/10
The Brevnov Monastery’s own pub was closed for refurbishment
on our first visit (May 2008), and it showed a few weeks later.
Looking like a posh Harvester, the rustic setting may suit the location
on the monastery grounds (just to the right inside the main gate)
but still seems a little incongruous with Prague’s metropolitan
surroundings. Good beer and food nonetheless. Tram 15, 22 or 25
to Brevnovsky Klaster.
U Klastera, Belohorska 169
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 8/10. Ambience: 8/10 Total: 8/10
This large pub is directly over the road from the Brevnov Monastery
tramstop (Tram 15, 22 or 25), and does a choice of Czech beers and
good, cheap food. The traditional, table-clothed gloomy interior
is complimented with a row of outside seating if you want to take
the fumes. Worth a couple of beers at least.
Peter’s (not sure of the address
– it’s on the main road through Brevnov)
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 5/10. Ambience: 7/10 Total: 6/10
Despite some exotic beer signs outside, this place is now simply
a shrine to Staropramen, but in its favour it does have a Dragoun
Brevnov team poster on the wall! Very, very local, and pretty unused
to tourists – you’ll want to know enough Czech to order
a beer at least! On the Tram 15/22/25 route – look out it
for it around Marjanka stop on the south side of the road.
Privni Pivni Tramvaj, Na Chodovci 1a
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 8/10. Ambience: 9/10 Total: 8/10
The “first beer tramway” gets rave reviews from beerspotters
(a breed that does tend to excited about public transport), and
is basically a pub right at the end of the No 11 Tramline in the
otherwise unimpressive suburb of Sporilov. The pub makes use of
an otherwise unused tram ticket hall/cabin, and is renowned for
having a “fourth tap” hosting a guest beer, an relatively
rare phenomenon in the land of sponsored pubs. The sitting area
to the right (past the imaginatively decorated Gents toilet) is
also done up like the inside of the tram car, although its sometimes
U Klokonicka, Na Veseli 48
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 7/10. Ambience: 7/10 Total: 7/10
The cheapest beer we’ve found in Prague on our last two visits
can be sampled way out in the suburbs. Handy for combining with
the Prvni Pivni Tramvaj (the No 11 tram runs to the foot of the
hill – get off at Horky) as well as Na Poloucko and Basta
(the Vozovna Pankrac terminus of tram No 18 is an easy, non-hilly
walk to Klokonicka), this backstreet local with a nice garden and
high ceilings also does very cheap, honest Czech pub food. My pick
of the beers is the Kacov 12-degree yeast version.
Na Paloucku, Zateckych 16
Last visited: May 2008. Beer: 9/10. Ambience: 3/10 Total: 5/10
Just 10 minutes around the corner from U Klokonicka (or two stops
on tram 18 to Paloucek), this big modern tank pub is a safe bet
for a good beer, but for some reason (possibly the amount I’d
already consumed, or the quality of the places already visited)
it struck me as the sort of place Blofeld’s henchmen would
hang around in…
Pivovar Basta, Taborska 49
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 10/10. Ambience: 8/10 Total: 9/10
One of Prague’s newest brewpubs is just down the hill from
Na Paloucku, and can get busy – if coming in the evening,
consider asking your hotel to phone and reserve a table. We were
accommodated in the brewery itself (just to the right of the front
door) at something akin to the “chef’s table”.
Very good beer indeed. If going by tram, then #18 to Nusle Radnice
pretty much drops you at the door.
There are a number of passable pubs in the quirky suburb of Zizkov,
including Viktoria Zizkov's own clubhouse and the (in)famous "Shot
Out Eye" pub at the foot of the hill with the big statue on,
however the sole recommendation worth seeking out is:
U Sadu, Skropovo Namesti 6
Last visited: Jan 2006. Beer: 6/10 Ambience: 7/10 Total: 7/10
Just one block west of the TV Tower in Zizkov, this wee gem faces
a garden square and boats a quirky interior with all kinds of bric-a-brac
hanging from the ceiling. Definitely worth a visit if you’re
in the area.
U Jagusky, Na Zertcach 28
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 9/10. Ambience: 7/10 Total: 8/10
A tank pub in the most incongruous of locations, out in the dusty
suburb of Palmovka by the Metro (take the eastern-most exit). Another
local pub for local people, but as ever, if you’re prepared
to speak a little polite Czech, the world is your oyster. Heaving
food portions abound and there’s some very interesting décor
around the back of the pub.
Richter Brewey, Bulovka 17
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 9/10. Ambience: 7/10 Total: 8/10
Just when you think you’ve been given a bum steer and there’s
no way a celebrated brewpub could possibly call the dreary suburb
of Liben a home, it appears on the right hand side of the street
heading down from the Bulovka tram stop (trams 10, 24 or 25). Despite
the Germanic name, the dark wood panelled interior gives the place
an almost Tudor feel, and the beers come with a full menu. In common
with most brewpubs, it fills up with reservations at weekends and
evenings, so consider asking your hotel to make one for you, particularly
is this is quite a trek and fall-back options are in seriously short
supply in this residential corner of town!
Holesovice is pretty much a standard inner-city suburb, with standard
pubs. However, it was the first area we stayed in (back in 1999),
so we thought we’d go back and see how it was getting on (and
if the Sparta fans bar was still there). We got the metro to Vltavska,
and walked around to Dukelskych Hridinu, which is pretty much the
U Houbare, Dukelskych Hridinu 30
Last visited: Jan 2004 (however we know it’s still there!).
Beer: 8/10 Ambience: 8/10 Total: 8/10
To be found on the corner of Veletrzni and Dukelskych Hridinu,
this place has really smartened up its act in the past 5 years.
What was previously a bare front bar, bedecked in dozens of pennants,
with a barn-like beer hall at the side, is now a smart, table-clothed
pivnice. The front bar is still a mostly standing affair, and the
pennants are now down to barely two-dozen (look out for the yellow
NATA one on the left behind the bar). The scary-looking barman broke
into a wide smile when I ordered in my broken Czech. Definitely
worth a look-in if you’re in the area. Now reported to be
a tank pub (2008 – not tried though)
Na Melniku, Frantiska Krizka 28
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 7/10 Ambience: 6/10 Total: 6/10
To be found one street up the hill from Dukelskych Hridinu, on
the corner of Hermanova and Veverkova (near the Bellevue Hotel),
this thriving tank pub was popular with passers-by drinking schnapps
in the front bar, and eating in the sit-down portion. Very good,
filling food at reasonable prices.
Unnamed Sports Bar, Milady Horakove
Last visited: Jan 2004. Beer: 8/10 Ambience: 7/10 Total: 7/10
A strange one this – a sports bar diagonally opposite the
Bellevue Hotel with its own bookies (in a little shed) inside the
door. There’s a pool table out back, and plenty of bar stools,
as well as a pleasant seating area at the front with the walls bedecked
in old photos and match reports. All of this, plus friendly service
and the interesting Bernard beer on tap. Again, not necessarily
worth a special trip, but if you’re passing…
Unnamed Bar/Restaurant, Strossmayerova
Last visited: Jan 2004. Beer: 6/10. Ambience: 7/10. Total: 6/10.
This place, which name again escapes me, has the dubious distinction
of being our first ever bar in the Czech Republic. More of a restaurant
(although perfectly happy to just serve you beer), it is blighted
(in my opinion) by the curse of Czech restaurants – the acidic
Krusovice beer on tap.
Klasterni Pivnice, Ovenecka 15 (on corner
Last visited: June 2008. Beer: 7/10. Ambience: 9/10 Total: 8/10
A backstreet local charging disarming prices along with a disarmingly
cute wee barmaid dishing out the beer. Klaster beer on tap here,
along with some bottled variants of Primator. Don’t expect
too much in the way of food, and don’t leave it too late to
get here – it shuts at 9pm each night. Well worth a visit,
and a handy staging post for a Holesovice pub crawl.
Svijansky Rytif, Jireckova 13
Last visited: May 2008 (in passing – too busy to get a seat!).
Not rated as not properly visited.
More of a restaurant than a pub, this basement level joint around
the corner from U Klastera knocks out the very palatable Svijany
beer. One of the food options on a decent Holesovice pub crawl.
Pod Loubim, Evropska 26
Last visited: June 2008. Beer 8/10. Ambience 6/10. Total 7/10.
A very handy first/last pub in Prague, being just a couple of blocks
along from the Dejvicka Metro and the bus stop for the 119 Airport
Bus. Head down Evropska towards the airport and the pub is on the
right hand side opposite the Hotel Diplomat. A comfortable stand
up front bar leads to a sit down area with a basic menu and sumptuous
toilets. A Pilsner Urquell tank pub, a good beer is guaranteed!
Brevnov lends itself to a pub crawl, with the two pubs out at the
monastery plus the staging post halfway back into town. This is
also easily combined with the castle district, or even Holesovice
if you get the right tram. Try the following for size:
Klasterni pivovar Strahov - good to go early when there's no
pressure on you to eat, and your judgement isn’t skewed
enough to have more than one of their ridiculously over-priced
(but admittedly good) brews;
Klasterni Senk & U Klastera - try the one in the monastery
first (in case it's closed!), then have a couple in the big yellow
pub facing the tram stop;
Peter's - needing another beer or a pit-stop to make use of
the facilities? Hop off on the way back into town and grab a beer
at Peter's or similar; then either:
Option 1 - hop off at the Malovaka stop at the back end of the
castle, make your way down Loretanska and call into the iconic
U Cerneho Vola for some Kozel, then head down the steps to Mala
Strana, maybe calling into Na Schodech on the way down..
Option 2 - catch the #8 tram towards Holseovice, get off at
Letenske Namesti (at the top of the hill heading down into Holesovice)
and follow the Holesovice route below:
A cracking wee suburb north of the Vltava from Stare and Nove Mesto,
and mostly rows of tenement housing. Contains the Letna Park and
the Sparta Stadium, although locals maintain Letna is a separate,
more bohemian suburb! This crawl starts at the top of the hill near
Letenske Namesti, but is easily reversed (handy if coming from the
U Klastera - cracking wee locals pub, but closes early at 9pm
The south-eastern suburbs - Sporilov,
Pankrac & Nusle.
This crawl takes you well off the beaten track into suburbs even
some Praguers aren't familiar with. Bear with us, it's worth the
ride.Personally, I would recommend doing it in this order, as I
wouldn't want to be marooned out at Sporilov when the trams switch
to night service!
Prvni Pivni Tramvaj - catch the #11 tram all the way to its
terminus at Sporilov. Even when you find yourself passing through
an desolate industrial park, fear not, as the pub is in the tram
U Klokocnika - hop off the #11 at Horky on its way back into
town, cross the road and head up Na Jezerece, turn right onto
Pod Lazni and you'll find the pub at the end of the road on the
right hand side.
Na Paloucku - U Klokocnika and head straight down Na Veseli
(i.e. had you not walked into the pub, you'd have turned left
at the end instead); after about 5 minutes you'll see tram tracks
heading to the right - this is the Vozovna Pankrac terminus of
tram #18. You can either hop on this for 2 stops to Paloucek (which
is bascially a big loop), or walk for a further 5 minutes past
the terminus, alongside the main road and then down to the right.
Na Paloucku is the big pub overlooking the Paloucek tram stop.
Pivovar Basta - still heading downhill, it's an easy 5 minute
walk (or a lazy one stop hop on the #18) to the Basta brewpub,
facing Nusle Radnice (town hall). Once you've had your fill of
top notch unpastuerised beer, hop on the #18 back into town.
Still thirsty? Then why not pick up the Nove Mesto trail from
the U Medviku pub having caught tram #18 back into Narodni Trida?
A cluster of brewpubs all within easy walking distance of each
other. Starting from the centre of Wensclesas Square, head south-west
Branika Formanka - you can skip this slice of gritty realism
if you like, but I'm a fan of this rough and ready stand-up workers
bar. Best to at least know to how to ask for your beer in Czech
from the grumpy barman.
Novemestsky Pivovar - a few doors down, this shiny tourist mecca
isn't my favourite, but receives good reviews.
U Medvidku - from the outside it looks like a Budvar palace
(and it is, including serving the tasty yeast beer version), but
if you head to the right, walk down the back and climb the stairs,
there's a hidden brewpub. Found opposite the Narodni Trida tram-stop
extravanganza (i.e. turn right at the end of Vodickova and you'll
see it over the road after a few hundred metres). A handy staging
post for tram journeys beginning or ending in the centre of town.
U Fleku - a must for all beer-lovers, and for all German coach
parties too. Stick to the beer - the food and the Becherovka shots
are very pricey. The beer is nice, but not cheap and only served
in 0.4l measures. To get there, head down past Tesco and bear
left (or walk down to Myslikova and take the second right up Kremencova.
Pivovarsky Dum - from Fleku, turn left out the door then right
at the end of Kremencova onto Myslikova, cross the park in Karlova
Namesti and head up Jecna. Pivovarsky Dum is the place on the
right hand side that looks like a furniture showroom from the