What to say about Düsseldorf?
One of my favourite cities - definitely the best
drinking destination in Europe. Düsseldorf's
Altstadt has a reputation as the "longest
bar in Europe" - not one bar, but hundreds
of them (none of which are individually very long).
The place is driven by the love of a beer called
"Alt", a sort of cross between bitter
and lager (much nicer than it sounds!).
It's not all about the bevvy, mind. The Königsallee
(or "Kö")is one of Germany's most
famous designer shopping streets, he Rhine flows
through the city, giving ample riverside space
for walks, parks and riverside summer terrace
bars, and the TV Tower sports a nice revolving
restaurant, giving views over the altstadt, the
modern architecture of the Media Harbour, and
even as far as Cologne’s own TV Tower. The
"Mediahafen", with it's trio of Frank
Gehry buildings, is well worth closer investigation
if you've any interest in architecture.
A few of my favourite pubs include:
- Im Füchschen - brew
pub on northern edge of Altstadt (Ratinger Strasse)
– great beer, and loads of other places
around. Also do a weizenbier called "Silber
Füchschen", which is worth a try.
- Schlüssel - another
brew pub, this time on Bolkerstrasse. Plenty
of proletarian (i.e. non-restaurant) seating
and standing just inside the door to the right,
and very good beer.
- Zum Uerige - Massive brew
pub in middle of Altstadt (Flinger Strasse).
Superb waiters who replace your empty 2cl glass
with a full one within seconds. In the summer
they also float around the street outside, making
the pub a very difficult place to walk past.
- Schumacher - most people
only discover the restaurant-ish "Im Goldener
Kessel" in the Altstadt (diagonally opposite
Schlüssel on Bolkerstrasse), but I prefer
the earthier brewery outlet on Oststrasse, between
the centre and the station. Turn left for stand-up
drinking and great service, or right for the
full restaurant beer hall.
- Kabuffke - tiny wee place
that sells the heavenly Killepitsch liqueur,
right over the precinct from Uerige.
- Peter's Diebels Treff - narrow
wee lokal on Mertensgasse. Lots of alt, wood
beams and schnapps.
- Bei Bill - tucked way down
in the south of the Altstadt on Hafenstrasse
(opposite the expensive, food oriented Zum Schiffchen)
is this great wee locals pub. Well worth a stay,
but don't sit under the fruit machine! The landlady
has fond memories of the Tartan Army from 2003.
- Donau Bierstube - a strange
bird of a pub on Worringer Platz, handy for
the station. Seems to be popular with homesick
elderly Balkan customers.
- Das Gasthaus - right behind
the silver Frank Gehry building on Hammer Str,
this is a great place for a Füchschen alt
near the harbour.
- Bierhaus Zille - Amazing
place on Kurze Strasse. Really narrow but stretches
way back. Best left for after 9pm on a Friday
or Saturday. If you sit at the front bar it
has a scoreboard that shows what song is playing!
- Spinnstube
– tucked away on the southern edge of
the Altstadt on Wallstrasse, this tiny local
is a real find. The weaving theme extends from
sewing to comedy illuminated arachnids hanging
off the ceiling, and the carnival music can
lead to the formation of an impromptu dance
floor amongst the tightly packed furniture.
Don’t expect particularly quick service
(the old guy running the show does his best),
but it is a real alternative to the crowded
altstadt.
- Auberge - Left the best
laugh til last! This a German rock pub par excellence!
Mullets and denim jackets a plenty, this tiny
bar can be a squash, but has waiter service
so you don't need to worry about squeezing to
the bar. Guaranteed to hear Bon Jovi, and quite
possibly, the Final Countdown. When "Wind
of Change" came on in here, I thought everyone
was going to break down in tears. I actually
have a t-shirt from this place (seriously),
and best of all, it says "Let's Rock!"
on the back.
(Many thanks to Thomas Friedrichs for the help!)
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